Dreaming of beautiful hardwood floors but put off by the cost of installation? You're not alone! The good news is that you can absolutely install your own hardwood floors. Yes, it will be a challenging project, but the results are incredibly rewarding.
Let's break the process down into manageable steps so you can confidently create the floors you've always wanted.
Key Takeaways:
- Prepare your subfloor meticulously – it must be clean, level, and dry.
- Use underlayment and moisture barriers (if needed) for protection.
- Plan your layout carefully to minimize awkward cuts.
- Always leave room for hardwood expansion around the edges.
- Don't forget the finishing touches – trim and transition strips create a polished look.
Table of Contents
- Tools and Materials You'll Need
- Preparing the Subfloor
- Installing the Underlayment and Moisture Barrier
- Planning Your Layout
- Installing the Hardwood Floor
- Finishing Touches
- Cleaning and Protecting Your New Floor
- Appendix I: Leveling Concrete Subfloors
- Appendix II: Leveling Plywood Subfloors
Tools and Materials You'll Need
Before tackling your hardwood floor installation, make sure you're armed with the right equipment. Gathering everything beforehand will make for a much smoother process.
Essential Tools
- Table Saw or Circular Saw: For cutting boards to length. A table saw offers more precision, but a circular saw works for budget-driven projects.
- Miter Saw: Makes angled cuts for corners and around obstacles.
- Mallet: Used with a tapping block to join boards tightly.
- Flooring Nailer or Stapler: Special tool to quickly secure flooring to the subfloor. Can often be rented.
- Jigsaw: For complex cuts around vents, doorways, or other irregular shapes.
- Tape Measure, Level, and Carpenter's Square: For accurate measurements and ensuring boards are straight.
- Pry Bar: May be helpful for removing existing baseboards or trim.
Essential Materials
- Hardwood Flooring: Choose your desired species and style. Calculate the square footage of your room and add 10% to account for waste.
- Underlayment: Provides a cushion, sound barrier, and sometimes added moisture protection. Consult your flooring manufacturer for recommended types.
- Moisture Barrier (if needed): Essential if installing over concrete.
- Nails or Staples: Sized specifically for your flooring nailer/stapler and floor thickness.
- Spacers: Maintain the required expansion gap around the perimeter of your room.
Optional (but helpful):
- Knee Pads: Protect your knees as you'll be spending a lot of time on the floor.
- Chalk Line: Useful for marking long, straight starting lines.
Some hardware stores or tool rental centers offer hardwood flooring installation kits, which may be a convenient option.
Preparing the Subfloor
A solid, clean, and level subfloor is the foundation of a successful and long-lasting hardwood floor installation. Skipping this crucial step can lead to squeaking, buckling, and uneven floors – a major headache down the road.
Importance of a Clean, Level Subfloor
Your hardwood floor will only be as smooth and stable as the surface beneath it. Any debris, old adhesive, or unevenness will telegraph through, causing problems and potentially damaging your new flooring investment.
Checking for Levelness
- Use a Long Level: Lay a 4-foot or 6-foot level across your subfloor in various directions.
- Look for Gaps: Gaps between the level and the floor indicate dips or high points.
- Tolerance: Most hardwood flooring requires the subfloor to be level within 3/16 of an inch over a 10-foot span.
Addressing Unevenness
- High Spots: Sand down high spots using a floor sander or belt sander.
- Low Spots: For minor dips, fill with a self-leveling compound. More substantial dips may require building up the subfloor with plywood.
Subfloor Material Considerations
- Concrete: Ensure it's completely dry and free of cracks. You'll likely need a moisture barrier before installing underlayment and hardwood.
- Plywood: Verify it's in good shape – no rotting sections or loose boards. Secure any loose boards with screws.
For more details on leveling concrete and plywood, you can check our Appendix I and Appendix II respectively for more details.
Cleaning the Subfloor
Once your subfloor is level, thoroughly sweep and vacuum to remove all dust and debris. Any remaining dirt or old adhesive can interfere with the installation of your new hardwood floors.
Installing the Underlayment and Moisture Barrier (if needed)
Underlayment serves several important purposes for your hardwood floor, and a moisture barrier is crucial in specific situations. Let's tackle this step before laying your gorgeous new flooring.
Purposes of Underlayment
- Soundproofing: Dampens the noise of footsteps on your hardwood floor.
- Insulation: Provides a slight thermal barrier, especially helpful over cold basements or concrete subfloors.
- Moisture Protection: Some underlayments have an integrated moisture barrier.
- Smoothing Minor Imperfections: Can help mask very minor subfloor unevenness.
When a Moisture Barrier is Needed
- Over Concrete: Always install a moisture barrier directly on top of concrete to prevent moisture from migrating up and damaging your hardwood.
- Below-Grade Basements: Use a moisture barrier even with plywood subfloors in basements.
Common Underlayment Types
- Foam Underlayment: The most popular choice, offering affordability, sound absorption, and a slight cushion.
- Felt Underlayment: A budget-friendly option that provides basic sound dampening and moisture barrier properties.
- Cork Underlayment: A natural, eco-friendly choice that offers excellent sound and thermal insulation, but may not be the most water-resistant.
- Rubber Underlayment: Provides superior sound insulation and moisture resistance, but is typically the most expensive option.
Installation Steps
- Choose the Right Products: Consult your hardwood flooring manufacturer's recommendations. They may specify a particular type of underlayment.
- Roll Out and Cut: Roll the underlayment (and moisture barrier, if using separately) across the subfloor. Cut pieces to length with a utility knife.
- Overlap and Tape: Overlap the seams as directed by the manufacturer, usually about 6 inches. Secure seams with the manufacturer's recommended tape.
- Run Up the Walls (optional): Some installers run the underlayment slightly up the walls to add extra protection from moisture.
Important Notes
- Don't Double Up: If your underlayment has an integrated vapor barrier, you don't need a separate moisture barrier.
- Follow Manufacturer Directions: Always adhere to the specific installation instructions for the underlayment and moisture barrier you've chosen.
Handling Corners and Transitions
- Corners: Carefully cut the underlayment and/or moisture barrier to fit snugly in corners, mitering the edges if necessary for a clean look.
- Transitions: Underlayment typically stops where another flooring type meets the hardwood (e.g., doorways, tile). You may need to taper the underlayment down to meet the transition height of the other flooring.
Planning Your Layout
A well-planned layout is key to a beautiful hardwood floor installation that looks professional and minimizes awkward cuts and waste. Take some time to consider the following:
Determining Starting Wall
- Longest Wall: Generally, start your installation along the longest, straightest wall in the room for the best visual appeal.
- Focal Point: Alternatively, if the room has a clear focal point (like a fireplace) you might choose to run the flooring parallel to it.
Importance of Staggered Seams
- Aesthetics & Stability: Staggering the end joints of your floorboards in subsequent rows prevents long, continuous seams. This looks better and enhances the structural integrity of your floor.
- Minimum Staggering: Consult your hardwood manufacturer, but generally, stagger board seams by at least 6 inches.
Calculating Material Needs
- Room Measurement: Measure the length and width of your room to calculate the square footage.
- Add Waste Factor: Add at least 10% to your square footage calculation to account for cutting mistakes and unusable pieces. Ordering a slightly higher quantity gives you wiggle room.
Pro Tip – Visualizing Your Layout: Consider laying out a few rows of flooring boards "dry" (without securing them) to get a feel for the layout and board spacing before you begin the actual installation.
Points to Consider:
- Board Width: Wider planks may emphasize the spaciousness of a large room, while narrower planks can be a good choice for smaller spaces.
- Doorways: Think about how your flooring direction will run through doorways, trying to avoid narrow cuts or awkward transitions.
Installing the Hardwood Floor
With preparation done, it's time for the exciting part – laying down your beautiful floor! Remember, patience and precision are key.
Expansion Gaps
- Essential: Hardwood naturally expands and contracts with temperature and humidity changes. Leave a consistent gap around the entire perimeter of the room to accommodate this.
- Size: Consult your flooring manufacturer, but a gap of 1/2 to 3/4 inch is typical. Use spacers to maintain this gap as you work.
First Row – Meticulous Matters
- Choose Straight Boards: Select the straightest boards for your starting row.
- Alignment: Lay the first row with the tongue side facing the wall (you'll likely remove the tongue later to allow for expansion). Ensure it's perfectly aligned with your starting wall.
- Securing: Using your flooring nailer or stapler, secure the boards into the subfloor following the manufacturer's recommended spacing for fasteners.
Subsequent Rows
- Locking Mechanism: Most hardwood utilizes a tongue-and-groove system. Carefully angle the tongue of the new board into the groove of the previous row.
- Snug Fit: Use a mallet and tapping block to gently tap the boards together, closing any gaps.
- Stagger Those Seams: Ensure those end joints are staggered appropriately between rows!
Cutting Techniques
Measuring and Marking:
- Measure Twice, Cut Once: This age-old adage applies here! Double-check your measurements before cutting to avoid wasted boards.
- Marking for Accuracy: Use a carpenter's square to ensure your cut line is straight. A scribe tool can help transfer markings from the board you're cutting to the new board.
Choosing the Right Saw:
- Table Saw (Preferred): Offers the most precision for straight cuts. Set the fence to the desired width and carefully guide the board through the blade.
- Miter Saw: Excellent for precise angled cuts, particularly useful around door jambs. Set the saw to the required angle and secure the board for a clean cut.
- Circular Saw (Alternative): While less ideal for perfectly straight cuts, it can work for careful cuts. Use a straight-edge guide for better accuracy.
Using the Flooring Nailer/Stapler
- Safety First: Wear safety glasses and hearing protection when using the flooring nailer.
- Following Manufacturer's Instructions: Each nailer/stapler might have slightly different operations. Consult the manual for specific instructions on loading nails/staples, adjusting settings, and proper operation.
- Angled Nails: Most nailers fire nails at an angle for better penetration and holding power.
- Spacing: Refer to your flooring manufacturer's recommendations for the appropriate spacing of nails/staples along the boards.
- Nail Placement: Generally, nails are positioned near the tongue edge of the board, avoiding the edge that will be exposed.
Handling Tricky Obstacles
Vents and Pipes:
- Template for Precision: Create a template out of cardboard to trace the exact shape of your vent or pipe. Use this template to mark your cuts on the floorboard for a perfect fit.
- Jigsaw Maneuvers: Use a jigsaw to carefully cut out the traced shape on the floorboard. Ensure your cut provides enough clearance for the vent or pipe.
Door Jambs:
- Undercutting: You'll likely need to undercut the door jamb slightly so the flooring slides beneath it seamlessly.
- Choosing Your Tool: A handsaw or oscillating multi-tool can be used for undercutting. The oscillating multi-tool might offer more maneuverability in tight spaces. Be cautious and avoid cutting too deeply into the jamb itself.
Pro Tip: Cut a scrap piece of board first to practice your undercutting technique before tackling the actual door jamb.
Important Reminders:
- Check Your Work: Frequently check the alignment of your rows and ensure boards are tightly joined.
- Protect Your Floor: As you work, cover completed sections with protective paper to prevent scratches or damage during installation.
Finishing Touches
With the hardwood installed, a few final steps will complete the look and protect your beautiful new floor.
Installing Trim
- Baseboards: Baseboards (or shoe molding, if desired) cover the expansion gap around the perimeter, creating a clean transition between the floor and walls.
- Matching and Securing: Choose baseboards that match or complement your flooring. Attach them securely to the wall studs, using nails or screws, not to the flooring itself. Pre-drill holes to avoid splitting the wood.
- Quarter Round: Use this for additional cover-up in areas where the baseboards don't make full contact with the floor due to slight unevenness. Quarter round is a small, rounded molding that fills the gap between the baseboard and the floor.
Transition Strips
In doorways or places where your hardwood meets another flooring type (carpet, tile), install transition strips. They bridge the gap and protect the edges of both flooring materials.
Variety of Styles
Transition strips come in various materials (metal, wood, plastic) and styles to coordinate with your floor and the height difference between the two flooring types.
Here are some common types:
- Reducer Strips: Used when your hardwood floor is lower than adjacent flooring (e.g., tile). They come in various thicknesses to match the height difference.
- T-Moldings: Ideal for transitions of equal height, like between two rooms with different types of hardwood flooring. They have a T-shaped profile that covers the gap between the two floors.
- End Caps: Used to create a finished look at the ends of transition strips, especially at doorways.
Installation Methods for Transition Strips
- Measure and Cut: Measure the length of the doorway or the area needing the transition strip. Cut the strip to size using a miter saw for a clean, angled cut at the door jamb.
- Pre-drill Holes (Optional): For some materials like metal strips, pre-drilling pilot holes can prevent the strip from bending during installation.
- Secure the Strip: The appropriate installation method depends on the material of your transition strip:
- Nail-on Strips: Use nails specifically designed for the strip material (e.g., metal nails for metal strips). Hammer them into the subfloor through pre-drilled holes (if applicable).
- Pressure-fit Strips: Some strips have a flange that wedges under the flooring and the adjoining floor material, creating a secure fit.
- Adhesive Strips: Apply construction adhesive (appropriate for the materials) to the back of the strip and press it firmly into place.
Important Notes:
- Consult the Manufacturer's Instructions: Always refer to the specific installation recommendations for your chosen transition strips.
- Door Swing Clearance: Ensure the transition strip doesn't hinder the door swing when installed.
Cleaning and Protecting Your New Floor
- Thorough Sweep/Vacuum: Before enjoying your new floor, thoroughly sweep and vacuum to remove any remaining dust or debris from the installation process.
- Manufacturer's Recommendations: Refer to your flooring manufacturer for specific ongoing cleaning and maintenance instructions. They may recommend specific products to protect the finish of your hardwood.
Additional Considerations
- Furniture Pads: Place felt furniture pads under the legs of chairs, tables, and other furniture to prevent scratches on your new hardwood floors.
- Area Rugs: Consider area rugs, especially in high-traffic zones, for added protection and a design layer.
Appendix I: Leveling Concrete Subfloors
Assess the Severity
Minor dips or imperfections can often be addressed with a self-leveling compound. More significant unevenness may require a more involved process, potentially involving a grinder or additional subfloor layers.
Self-Leveling Compound
- Prep: Thoroughly clean and prime the concrete subfloor following the compound manufacturer's instructions.
- Mixing: Mix the self-leveling compound with water to the product's specifications.
- Application: Pour the compound over the low areas, allowing it to spread and find its own level. Work in sections, as self-leveling compounds tend to set quickly.
- Smoothing: Use a trowel or a smoothing tool to ensure a consistent finish.
Grinding High Spots
For substantial high spots, a concrete grinder may be necessary.
- Equipment: Rent a concrete grinder from a tool rental outlet.
- Safety: Wear protective gear (dust mask, eye protection, ear protection).
- Gradual Process: Grind down the high spots carefully and gradually, frequently checking with a level.
Appendix II: Leveling Plywood Subfloors
Addressing Loose Boards
- Secure: Screw down any loose or squeaky boards into the floor joists using appropriately sized screws.
- Replace: If any boards are severely damaged or rotting, replace them with new plywood of the same thickness.
Sanding High Spots
- Floor Sander or Belt Sander: Use one of these tools to carefully sand high spots on the plywood.
- Coarse to Fine: Start with coarse-grit sandpaper and gradually progress to finer grits for a smooth finish.
Filling Low Spots
- Minor Low Spots: Consider using a wood filler or a patching compound for minor dips.
- Larger Low Spots: May require layering new plywood over the low area to bring it up to level. Be sure to feather the edges of the new plywood for a smooth transition.
Important Notes
- Always Consult Manufacturer Instructions: Refer to the specific instructions for your chosen hardwood flooring, as they may have subfloor flatness requirements and recommendations.
- Moisture on Concrete: Ensure the concrete subfloor is fully cured and dry before proceeding. A moisture test may be necessary.