How to Resurface Hardwood Floors: A DIY Guide for Beginners

Resurfacing, also commonly known as refinishing, involves sanding down the top layer of wood to remove the old finish and imperfections, then applying a fresh stain and sealant for a renewed look.

In this guide, I will walk you through the steps of how to resurface hardwood floors, from assessing your floors to achieving a professional-looking finish.

Quick Steps to Resurface Hardwood Floors:

Assess Your Floors: Determine suitability (solid vs. engineered, thickness, damage).
Gather Supplies: Rent/buy sanding equipment, sandpaper, stain (optional), sealant, safety gear.
Prepare the Room: Clear the room, protect fixtures, clean the floors.
Sand the Floors: Use progressively finer grits, starting with coarse to remove the old finish.
Apply Stain (Optional): Apply stain evenly, working with the grain, then wipe off excess.
Apply Sealant: Apply multiple thin coats, allowing each to dry completely.
Finishing Touches: Remove tape, clean up, and enjoy your newly resurfaced floors!

Assessing Your Hardwood Floors
Gathering Your Supplies and Equipment
Preparing the Room and Floors
Sanding the Floors
Applying Stain (Optional)
Applying Sealant
Finishing Touches and Clean Up

Assessing Your Hardwood Floors

Not all hardwood floors can be resurfaced, and understanding the limitations will save you time, money, and potential frustration.

Solid Hardwood vs. Engineered Hardwood

First, identify whether you have solid hardwood or engineered hardwood floors:

Solid hardwood is, as the name suggests, a solid piece of wood, allowing for multiple resurfacing procedures over its lifespan.
Engineered hardwood, however, consists of a thin veneer of hardwood on top of plywood layers.

While some engineered wood floors can be resurfaced, the veneer limits the number of times this can be done. If your engineered wood floor is very thin, resurfacing might not be an option.

Measuring the Wood Thickness

If you're unsure about the thickness of your hardwood layer, you might need to access a bare section of flooring, perhaps near a heating vent or inside a closet. Alternatively, removing a floor vent can sometimes offer a glimpse of the wood's thickness.

This step is essential for engineered wood, as sanding through the veneer will expose the underlying layers and ruin the floor.

Checking for Existing Damage

Carefully inspect your floors for:

deep scratches
gouges
significant warping
or extensive water damage

While minor imperfections can be easily removed during the sanding process, deep damage might require professional repair or even floor replacement. Pay particular attention to areas around doorways and windows, as these are prone to moisture and wear.

If you discover significant subfloor issues or extensive damage, it's best to consult a professional flooring expert for advice. They can accurately assess the situation and recommend the best course of action.

Looking for Signs of Previous Resurfacing

If your floors have been resurfaced multiple times already, they might be too thin for another round of sanding. Look for signs of previous sanding, such as slightly rounded edges on the floorboards or very thin-looking wood.

Gathering Your Supplies and Equipment

Once you've determined that your hardwood floors are suitable for resurfacing, it's time to gather the necessary supplies and equipment. Having everything on hand before you begin will ensure a smooth and efficient process.

This project requires specialized tools, some of which you may choose to rent rather than purchase.

Essential Equipment

Drum Sander: This is the workhorse of the resurfacing process, used for sanding down the majority of the floor. Renting is usually the most cost-effective option.
Edge Sander: Essential for sanding the edges of the floor where the drum sander can't reach.
Buffer: Used for final smoothing and buffing after sanding.
Sandpaper: You'll need a variety of sandpaper grits, starting with coarse grit (e.g., 36 or 40 grit) for initial sanding and progressing to finer grits (e.g., 60, 80, and 100 grit) for smoothing.
Scraper: Useful for removing finish from corners and other tight spaces where sanders can't reach.
Vacuum: A shop vac is ideal for collecting dust and debris throughout the process.
Safety Equipment: Protecting yourself is paramount. You'll need safety glasses, a dust mask or respirator, and earplugs.

Materials

Wood Stain (Optional): If you want to change the color of your floors, choose a stain that complements your decor. Test it on a hidden area first to ensure you like the color.
Sealant: Protects the wood and gives it a durable finish. Common options include polyurethane (oil-based or water-based).
Wood Filler: Used to fill any gaps, cracks, or nail holes before sanding.
Painter's Tape: For masking off baseboards and other areas you don't want to sand or stain.
Drop Cloths or Plastic Sheeting: Protects surfaces from dust and debris.
Applicators: Brushes, rollers, or rags for applying stain and sealant (depending on the product).
Mineral Spirits or Denatured Alcohol (for oil-based stains/sealants): Used for cleaning up.

Renting vs. Buying

For large equipment like the drum sander and edge sander, renting is usually the most economical choice, as these machines can be quite expensive to purchase. Most rental companies offer tutorials on how to operate the equipment safely and effectively.

Smaller items like sandpaper, scrapers, and applicators are generally more affordable to buy.

Remember to prioritize safety by using appropriate protective gear throughout the project.

Preparing the Room and Floors

This involves clearing the room, protecting fixtures, and preparing the floor surface itself for sanding. Taking these steps will minimize dust and debris, protect your belongings, and ensure a smooth, even finish.

Clearing the Room

Completely empty the room of all furniture, rugs, curtains, and other items. The sanding process creates a significant amount of dust, so you need to remove everything that could be damaged or coated in dust.

If possible, seal off the room from other areas of the house using plastic sheeting to contain the dust.

Protecting Fixtures and Baseboards

Cover any remaining fixtures, such as light fixtures and door hardware, with plastic sheeting and painter's tape. Apply painter's tape along the baseboards to protect them from scratches during the sanding process.

If you plan to replace the baseboards after resurfacing, you can skip taping them.

Cleaning the Floors

Thoroughly clean the floors to remove any dirt, dust, or debris. Vacuum or sweep the entire area, then use a damp mop or tack cloth to remove any remaining particles. This ensures a clean surface for the sanding process and prevents dirt from being ground into the wood.

Filling Gaps and Cracks

Inspect the floor for any gaps, cracks, or nail holes. Fill these imperfections with wood filler, using a putty knife to smooth the surface. Allow the filler to dry completely according to the manufacturer's instructions before sanding.

Ventilation

Sanding creates a lot of dust, so open windows and doors to allow fresh air to circulate. If possible, use fans to help exhaust the dust-filled air outside. Wearing a dust mask or respirator is essential, even with good ventilation.

Sanding the Floors

Sanding is the most demanding part of the resurfacing process, but it's also the most transformative. This step removes the old finish, smooths out imperfections, and prepares the wood for staining and sealing.

Using the Drum Sander

Start with Coarse Grit: Begin with a coarse-grit sandpaper (e.g., 36 or 40 grit) to remove the old finish and level out any unevenness.
Move in the Direction of the Wood Grain: Always sand in the direction of the wood grain to avoid cross-grain scratches.
Overlap Passes: Overlap each pass of the drum sander by about one-third to ensure even sanding.
Maintain Consistent Pressure: Avoid applying too much pressure, which can create dips in the floor. Keep the sander moving at a steady pace.
Empty the Dust Bag Regularly: Empty the dust bag frequently to maintain optimal suction and prevent the sander from overheating.

Using the Edge Sander

Sand along the Edges: Use the edge sander to sand the areas the drum sander couldn't reach, such as along walls and in corners.
Match Grit with Drum Sander: Use the same grit sandpaper on the edge sander as you used on the drum sander.
Careful in Corners: Be cautious when sanding in corners to avoid damaging the walls.

Using a Scraper

For Tight Spaces: Use a scraper to remove finish from corners and other tight spaces inaccessible to the sanders.
Sharp Blade is Key: Ensure the scraper blade is sharp for efficient removal.

Progressive Grit Sanding

After the initial sanding with coarse grit, repeat the process with progressively finer grits of sandpaper (e.g., 60, 80, then 100 grit). This smooths out the scratches left by the coarser grit and prepares the surface for finishing.

Vacuum thoroughly between each grit change.

Final Pass

Make a final pass with the finest grit sandpaper (e.g., 100 grit) to achieve a smooth, even surface. This final pass should be done with the drum sander moving diagonally across the wood grain to minimize any remaining scratches.

Remember to wear your safety equipment throughout the sanding process.

Applying Stain (Optional)

Staining your hardwood floors allows you to customize the color and enhance the natural beauty of the wood. This step is optional; if you're happy with the natural color of your floors, you can skip staining and proceed directly to sealing.

Choosing a Stain

Oil-Based vs. Water-Based

Oil-based stains penetrate deeper into the wood, providing richer color and better durability. However, they have a stronger odor and longer drying time.
Water-based stains are easier to clean up and dry faster, but they may not penetrate as deeply.

Test the Stain

Always test the stain on a hidden area of the floor or a scrap piece of wood to ensure you're happy with the color before applying it to the entire floor. Lighting can significantly affect how the stain appears, so test it in the same lighting conditions as the room.

Applying the Stain

Work in Sections: Apply the stain in manageable sections, working with the grain of the wood.
Applicator Choice: Use a brush, rag, or applicator pad designed for staining. Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the specific stain you've chosen.
Even Application: Apply the stain evenly, avoiding puddles or streaks.
Wipe off Excess: After applying the stain, wipe off any excess with a clean cloth, working in the direction of the wood grain. The longer you leave the stain on, the darker the color will be.
Drying Time: Allow the stain to dry completely according to the manufacturer's instructions before proceeding to the next step. This typically takes several hours or overnight.

Important Considerations

Ventilation: Ensure adequate ventilation while working with stain, as the fumes can be strong.
Safety Gear: Wear gloves, safety glasses, and a respirator or dust mask to protect yourself from the fumes.
Wood Conditioner (Optional): For some wood species, particularly softwoods like pine, applying a wood conditioner before staining can help achieve a more even stain color.

Staining can dramatically enhance the appearance of your hardwood floors. By carefully choosing a stain and applying it correctly, you can achieve a beautiful, custom look that complements your home's décor.

Applying Sealant

The sealant protects your newly refinished floors from wear and tear, moisture, and stains, ensuring they stay beautiful for years.

Choosing a Sealant

Oil-Based vs. Water-Based Polyurethane:

Oil-based polyurethane offers a rich, amber tone and excellent durability, but it has a strong odor and longer drying time.
Water-based polyurethane dries clear, has a low odor, and dries faster, making it a popular choice for DIYers.

Sheen Level

Choose your desired sheen level. Options range from matte (least shiny) to gloss (most shiny), with satin and semi-gloss in between. Consider the level of traffic in the room and your aesthetic preferences when selecting a sheen.

Applying the Sealant

Clean Surface: Ensure the floor is clean and free of dust before applying the sealant. Vacuum or use a tack cloth to remove any remaining particles.
Applicator: Use an applicator pad or a natural bristle brush specifically designed for applying polyurethane. Avoid using foam rollers, as they can create bubbles in the finish.
Thin Coats: Apply thin, even coats of sealant, working in the direction of the wood grain. Avoid puddles or thick spots.
Multiple Coats: Apply multiple coats of sealant, typically two to three, allowing each coat to dry completely before applying the next.
Light Sanding Between Coats (Optional): Lightly sanding between coats with very fine-grit sandpaper (e.g., 220 grit) can help create a smoother final finish. Remove all sanding dust before applying the next coat.
Drying Time: Allow the final coat of sealant to dry completely before walking on the floor. This can take several days, depending on the type of sealant and environmental conditions.

Important Considerations

Ventilation: Ensure adequate ventilation throughout the application and drying process, especially with oil-based polyurethane.
Safety Gear: Wear gloves, safety glasses, and a respirator or dust mask to protect yourself from fumes.
Clean Up: Clean your applicators immediately after use according to the manufacturer's instructions.

Applying sealant correctly is essential for protecting your investment and ensuring the longevity of your newly resurfaced floors.

Finishing Touches and Clean Up

After the final coat of sealant has dried completely, it's time for the finishing touches and clean-up. These final steps ensure your newly resurfaced floors look their best and are ready for you to enjoy.

Removing Tape and Protective Coverings

Carefully remove any painter's tape you used to protect baseboards or other fixtures.
Remove the tape slowly and at an angle to avoid pulling up any freshly applied finish.

If you used plastic sheeting to protect other areas of your home, carefully remove it to minimize dust dispersal.

Cleaning Up Dust and Debris

Even with careful preparation, some dust and debris will inevitably accumulate during the resurfacing process.

Thoroughly vacuum or sweep the entire area to remove any remaining particles.
Pay particular attention to corners and edges where dust tends to collect.

You can also use a damp mop or tack cloth for a final cleaning.

Reinstalling Fixtures and Furniture

Once the floor is clean, you can reinstall any removed fixtures, such as door hardware and light fixtures. Carefully move furniture back into the room, using furniture pads or felt protectors under the legs to prevent scratches on your newly finished floors.

Maintaining Your Newly Resurfaced Floors

Regular Cleaning: Sweep or vacuum regularly to remove dirt and grit that can scratch the finish.
Damp Mopping: Use a slightly damp mop for occasional cleaning. Avoid excessive water, as it can damage the wood.
Cleaning Products: Use a hardwood floor cleaner specifically designed for your type of finish (oil-based or water-based). Avoid harsh chemicals or abrasive cleaners.
Protective Mats: Place mats at entrances and in high-traffic areas to protect the floor from dirt and wear.
Furniture Pads: Use furniture pads under all furniture legs to prevent scratches.
Avoid High Heels: High heels can dent and scratch hardwood floors. Consider removing them indoors.

By taking these steps, you can maintain the beauty and longevity of your newly resurfaced hardwood floors. Enjoy the refreshed look and increased value they bring to your home!

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